Portal de Murcia
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After a brief period of rest at base camp, located high in the Himalayas at 5700m., Mountaineers Juan Carlos García Gallego and José M ª López Rodríguez has worked hard for, with an acclimatization insufficient, making two consecutive rises in which have brought all necessary equipment enabling them to mount the field 1, where they spent the first night and suffered severe headaches and exhaustion than normal.
"It's very hard to gain altitude for the first time over 6000m.
acclimation to a set.
Our bodies have not yet produced the physiological adaptations necessary to make efforts to that altitude.
It costs a lot to make any physical effort.
Keep in mind that the body has half the oxygen of which has sea level.
This causes the heart to fire and the blood oxygen saturation in very low offer.
To put it concisely, the levels of oxygen, measured in Murcia near sea level, any doctor would advise a hospital stay with extra oxygen supply. "
The route from basecamp to camp 1 runs through a very unstable moraine, where everything is a succession of rocks that accumulate on the ice.
Besides the tour tries to squeeze through a maze of "seracs (ice block), which is to keep distance to avoid being under the path of fall.
Many sections require attention for being the ice-covered rocks or wet from melting glacier.
The climbers will help in these sections of two walking sticks and are setting the GPS positions and putting small flags of bamboo in order to find the route in case of fog or bad weather.
On a profile air ice-free rock, climbers set up camp Murcia 1 to 6180 m, where they spent their first night of acclimatization.
Above them lies a huge glacier that runs down the steep slopes of Makalu.
The following days will have to find way through the maze of cracks that presents the glacier and find a safe place where you can locate avalanche field 2, at an approximate height of 6600-6800 m.
The Murcia will have to have preinstalled three camps on the mountain, the last above 7400 m.
before launching the final assault on the 5 th highest mountain on earth (Makalu 8463 m.).
Source: Club montañero de Murcia
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